What to do when Antipodean relatives come to visit ‘out of season’? Head to the seaside to catch the Harwich International Shanty Festival obviously…
Why?
When Linda first mentioned the Shanty Festival, I had my doubts. Folk music is not my scene – and I assumed that as an international ferry port, Harwich itself would be as dull and unappealing as Zeebrugge or Le Havre.
The sky is overcast and the sea looks quite rough as we pull into town, only increasing my reticence.
But oh, how wrong I was…
About the International Shanty festival
Now into its 20th year, the Harwich International Shanty Festival draws groups from across Europe to perform traditional ocean-going songs. It’s a massive affair, drawing more than 50 shanty singing groups and a handful of sea-inspired artists.
The festival runs from Friday to Sunday, with concerts taking place in several venues across the town. The beautifully preserved 1911 picture house, the Redoubt Fort, the Ha’penny Pier and virtually every pub and bar within the town limits.
Understandably, some venues and concerts are chargeable and tickets limited. But that doesn’t mean anyone will miss out. Some groups are braving the elements outside on the pier, huddling in the shelter of the visitors centre.
Perhaps most excitingly, every pub we pass has a group performing. What better excuse to try out some traditional English ales and to discover that sea shanties are actually quite entertaining?
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A trip around town
We are incredibly lucky to snag a parking space on the historic waterfront, right outside the Port Authority building. Almost immediately we are engaged by one of the performers, Chris Roche, who is extremely excited about the whole event. He personally invites us to his 3pm performance on the pier.
Afterwards, we trundle down one of the streets leading away from the quay, the Alma Inn. Music is already leaking through the windows, but the pub is packed, standing room only. Even if we did get over the threshold, there is no room for our party of four – or Linda’s scooter.
Instead, we keep heading south along King’s Head Street until we reach the church. Along the way we pass a number of historic buildings, once home to familiar people from British history. We meander out way through some narrow streets and out onto West Street where we find Harwich High Lighthouse.
The lighthouse is one of a pair – a few hundred metres away is the Low Lighthouse. By aligning the two lights, one above the other, ship’s pilots can identify the safe channel into Harwich harbour. The High Lighthouse is open to visitors, but I decline the climb despite the tour guide assuring me you can see the nearest foreign country from the top – the Principality of Sealand.
Instead, we head back towards the water, soon encountering the Treadmill Crane. This insanely dangerous piece of equipment was in use for several hundred years, unloading cargo from trading ships. Inside a darkened shed, two men would march in a giant treadmill like hamsters in a wheel. With every revolution, the crane’s chain would be reeled in, lifting goods from the ship’s hold.
The guide gives us a detailed history, his enthusiasm infectious – this guy really loves the crane, and he wants us to love it too. Especially as this is the only surviving example of a treadmill crane anywhere in Britain.
We stop for a beer and sharing pizza the the New Bell Inn where we enjoy two shanty groups, including one that seems to have come over from France. The pub is so full, we have to sit at tables set out on the road outside – thankfully closed to traffic!
Beer drunk, we continue our leisurely lap of the town, arriving at The Globe Inn. This pub claims to be the oldest in Harwich – and it shows. It also appears to be in the middle of significant renovations, lacking basics like proper flooring, plasterwork, doors. Electrical wiring and pipework hangs exposed from the walls.
But the bar is heaving, people sinking tankards of English ale and singing heartily, stamping on the bare boards. In the front bar, a woman plays a tin whistle, joined by a man on a squeezebox and a pirate keeping time, banging a box. Everyone knows the words and is having a great time, we’re all friends, despite only meeting five minutes earlier.
It’s not even six o’clock by the time we leave and I would be happy to stay for another hour or three. It will be a long evening in The Globe – and then they will do it all over again on Saturday and Sunday.
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About Harwich town
Harwich is most definitely not the quintessential ferry port. It is a place of ancient maritime history and one-time home to Samuel Pepys. But importantly, it’s a town where real people live proudly. Houses old and new are well-maintained, a beautiful place to wander.
And for American visitors, an added point of interest. Harwich is the port where The Mayflower began the long journey to the New World.
Linda’s comment
If I had known there would be so many pirates in town, I would definitely have come along in costume, maybe even decorated my scooter. I really enjoyed the festival.
Accessibility info
Harwich itself is well-designed with relatively well-maintained footpaths. Only once, near the New Bell Inn, did we encounter a junction lacking a drop kerb.
Many of the venues are less forgiving however. There are ramps onto the Ha’penny Pier for instance, but the pubs we visit do not. Every single one has a step at the front door – great for keeping out floods, not so good for wheelchairs.
Public car parks are free for Blue Badge holders. Excellent news if you can grab one of the seafront spaces like we did.
Harwich is also served by a train station which is very handy.
Where can I stay in Harwich?
Note, that the Harwich International Shanty Festival gets very, very busy. If you’re planning to stay, book early.
Would we revisit the Harwich International Shanty Festival?
Absolutely. Harwich is a fascinating town in its own right. However, the Harwich International Shanty Festival adds another layer of interest. All of the participants were having a great time – and we did too.
We visited on a Friday afternoon and it feels as though many of the groups were warming up for the weekend. The pubs are busy and I imagine they will be bursting at the seams on Saturday and Sunday. As such, Friday is probably the best day to visit if you do have mobility issues.
So should you visit the Harwich International Shanty Festival next year? Yes, most definitely.
Visit the Official Festival website for more info.
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