The first stop on our latest journey is Halifax, Nova Scotia. Having been here once before, we’ve already seen the number one dark tourism site, The Fairlawn Cemetery.
This time, we decided to stick to the centre of the city, specifically the Five Fishermen Restaurant.
Along the boardwalk
Halifax has clearly chosen to capitalise on the cruise market. Every ship is greeted by a kilted piper, helping them to claim the ‘most welcoming port in the world’ title.
Disembarkation is smooth, and the cruise terminal has a very useful tourist information desk. You can ask these local experts anything – including which public bus to catch to any destination – and they will help you out with a free city map.
Leaving the terminal, turn right and start walking to reach the city centre. Once past the statue of Samuel Cunard (yes, he of cruise line fame), you will reach a boardwalk lined with trendy restaurants and varsity. Further down you can find food stands, handicrafts and a couple of museums – including a weird blue-and-white corvette retired from the Canadian Navy.
Top tip: Lobster rolls are much cheaper here ($25 CAD) on the boardwalk than in any of the American states ($50 USD).
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It’s all uphill from here
The Five Fishermen restaurant is not far from the end of the boardwalk – but it’s all uphill. And the hill is quite steep.
Thankfully it is Sunday so there’s not much traffic or pedestrians around, making it quite easy to get around with the mobility scooter.
Why visit the Five Fishermen Restaurant?
The Five Fishermen Restaurant isn’t all that much to look up, but it has a unique place in dark tourism history. Back in 1912, this shiplap building was occupied by Snow & Company Undertakers. In the aftermath of the sinking of the Titanic, this was where victims were processed – either to be sent back to their families or for burial in the Fairlawn Cemetery.
Five years later, the undertakers was again overwhelmed after the infamous Halifax Explosion which killed nearly 2,000 local people. Photographs published in the Halifax local newspaper of the time show coffins stacked in the street as undertakers rushed to deal with the sheer number of dead.
Unsurprisingly, some claim the Five Fishermen is haunted…
Back to the ship
Thankfully, the journey back to the ship is all downhill. Better still, there’s a Tim Horton’s on the way. We stop in for a doughnut and milkshake each, shocked again by the amount of sugar in each – far more than we get in the UK branches!
Despite the constant rattling and bumping being quite uncomfortable, we opt to make the return trip along the wooden planked boardwalk. Along the way we spot a seal just off shore, stealing fish from a local fisherman. He seems quite amused, like this is not the first time he has had this problem.
We also manage to grab a geocache (GCZ4QV) near the cruise terminal, dropping off the travel bug we collected in Puerto Rico last year. Oops.
Did we get passport stamps in Halifax?
I asked at tourist information whether we could have passport stamps. The helpful gent behind the desk says that normally you can get one from the immigration/post office. But they are not open on Sundays.
So no, we did not get our passports stamped.
Overall
Halifax is a perfectly pleasant city and well worth a visit if you are in the area. Linda says she would be tempted to make a specific trip to visit, particularly when she’s fully mobile again.
Other activities in Halifax
Here’s some other top attractions and excursions in the Halifax area. Hopefully something piques your curiosity!
Peggy’s Cove Private Car Tour – 3.5 Hours
Set off from Halifax on a scenic one-hour drive along Nova Scotia’s stunning South Shore en route to the postcard-perfect fishing village of Peggy’s Cove. As you travel, your knowledgeable driver-guide will share stories of the area’s rich maritime heritage and point out sights along the way. On arrival, you’ll have time to explore at your own pace, from wandering the charming lanes to standing before the iconic Peggy’s Point Lighthouse. Perched against dramatic granite rocks where the Atlantic crashes ashore, this world-famous landmark has drawn photographers and visitors for more than a century.
Stroll along the rugged coastline to spot tidal pools, take in sweeping sea views, or admire the local artistry in boutique shops and galleries, including the William deGarthe Art Gallery. Whether you choose to savour local seafood or simply soak up the village’s charm, Peggy’s Cove offers a memorable taste of Nova Scotia’s natural and cultural beauty.
Before returning to Halifax, the tour makes a touching stop at the Swissair Flight 111 Memorial, a peaceful seaside tribute to the 229 lives lost in the 1998 tragedy offshore. The day concludes with a relaxed drive back to your pickup point in Halifax or Dartmouth, leaving you with lasting memories of one of Canada’s most picturesque and poignant coastal destinations.
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Guided Kayak Tour with Multiple Options
Glide across the waters of Halifax on a choice of exciting kayaking tours, each offering a fresh way to experience the city’s scenic harbour and historic shoreline. Whether you’re looking for a peaceful paddle, an active start to the day, or a stunning sunset adventure, there’s a tour perfectly tailored to your pace and preferences.
The 90-minute Sea Kayak Tour is a classic favourite, taking you along the beautiful Halifax Waterfront and around the storied Georges Island, complete with insights into the harbour’s history as you paddle. For a touch of evening magic, the 2-hour Sunset Kayak Tour offers calm waters and golden-hour views beneath the Macdonald Bridge, an unmissable opportunity for photos that capture Halifax at its most enchanting.
If you’re pressed for time, the 45-minute Lunch Paddle slots neatly into a midday break, while the 1-hour Early Bird Paddle is ideal for soaking up the morning light. Weekday paddles cater to experienced kayakers, while weekends welcome all levels—making it easy for everyone to enjoy Halifax from the best seat in the house: a kayak on the water.
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Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 Admission & Tour
Step into a place where history and personal stories come alive with a visit to the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, Halifax’s iconic waterfront landmark. Booking in advance gives you the flexibility to plan your visit around your travel schedule and the weather, ensuring you make the most of your time in port.
With your admission, you’ll explore all exhibits, beginning with the moving Pier 21 Story Exhibition. Led by a passionate guide, you’ll discover what it was like for newcomers arriving in Canada, walking in the footsteps of millions who began new lives here. In the Canadian Immigration Story Exhibition, you’ll trace the evolution of immigration through first-hand accounts, rich cultural history, and compelling stories that continue to shape the nation today. A 20-minute original documentary, In Canada, adds further depth, weaving together narratives of journey and belonging.
For a more personal connection, expert researchers at the Scotiabank Family History Centre can even help you trace your own family’s story. Before you leave, browse the museum’s unique gift shop for Canadian-made treasures—a perfect memento of your visit to this powerful and inspiring national historic site.
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